Subterranean River

Monitor lizards scrounging for lunch left overs
Entrance to the underground river
My new Philippino friends on the boat to the underground river

My rice diet - with fresh mango juice

It looks quaint!

Palawan is known as the Philippines last frontier, an unspoilt ecosystem of virgin forests, pristine beaches and clear waters. An island that has not been touched by mass tourism, and in areas not touched by tourism at all. It sounds idealic, of course on the downside it means that infrastructure is poor and in some places electricity is scarce - did I say that was a down side, what I really meant was that it makes everyday an adventure and keeps the riff raff out. I flew from Manila to Puerto Princessa, Palawan's capital and after a short rest stop and a maze of tricycles (the motorbike and side car variety not the cute child variety) I head out on a jeepney to Sabang to go and visit the Subterrean River. The 9am jeepney is sans wheel when I turn up and less than substantial looking, but I am ashored that the bus will be going to Sabang (and that it will get there). 10am and we are on our way - for 1 minute before we stop to load pigs and rice, and then we are on our way, until we stop to load cockerels and children, and then we are on our way, after a quick fuel stop. Fully loaded the 3 hour ride takes us up the north side of Palawan and then crosses the country east to west. The road is paved going north and then compacted gravel east to west. Once outside Puerto the landscape changes to jungle and there are straw huts abound, often next to a rice field and occasional with a tethered ox (maybe a water buffulo) in the yard. All is well until about 2 hours in and there is a large hiss - the said wheel has blown - everyone off the bus, a quick re blow up and back on the way.

Sabang is not on a particulary pretty beach, but it is surrounded by jungle clad mountains and the ferocious waves are quite refreshing after the ride in. I find a place to stay, which looks very quaint from the outside but is a little basic - no flush toilet and the whole town only runs electricity from 6pm until 10pm. The subterrean river is about a 20 minute boat ride around the coast and there are monitor lizards and monkeys to keep you entertained whislt waiting for your boat into the cave. The river runs for over 8km into the mountain but we only travel about 1.5km, being paddled by a guide and being accompanied by swiflets, clicking their way through the caves. There were plenty of bats as well but they were all asleep. The cave system is quite something and although there are not many formations the fact that the river runs through it makes it very memorable. Rather than catching a boat back to the town I do the 5km jungle walk. It starts off up about 350 steps up and through limestone karsts, which is very Indiana Jones and then runs through the jungle and down to the coast. I was dripping with sweat by the time I had finished - nice! Thankful again for the ferocious waves and a cooling down.